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Losng Safra
She woke me at 5 that day, shaking her head and flapping her ears like a sail on a boat when it catches the wind. I let her into the living room and went back to bed, but a snuffling sound made me come out to investigate, and there she was with my shoe in her mouth and the strap almost severed from the sole. Her little tail was wagging in greeting, but I smacked her and grabbed the shoe. She knew she had done something wrong, and she melted into the sofa, and I got dressed and took her out for our daily trip to the beach.
It was still dark outside, and I drove over to Dahariz Beach so she could have a run. I had been putting the leash out the window because she isn't very good at "recalling"- coming when she's called, and this way she could get some exercise and I could bring her back whenever I wanted to. The leash, a retractable one, had lost most of its spring, but it was the only long one I had. The beach out past the lagoon was pitch black- no moon, and so I decided to go over to Hafa so she could have a run there where it was brighter. Off we went.
Safra was trotting along quite happily beside the car when two things happened: the road narrowed for the construction work, and a vehicle the other side of the road put on its bright headlights! Safra yelped, pulled the leash out of my hand, and ran back the other way. I managed to park the car, and asked the vehicle driver- a garbage vehicle- where the dog went, and he pointed in the other direction- towards Al Baleed. I walked the entire length of the beach from the Palace to Al Baleed, calling and looking for my little friend. After two hours of walking and calling, I knew that she was in some kind of trouble, or she would have found me. I was distraut. Safra's leash was about 4 metres long and it was still around to her neck. I had visions of her strangling herself on a lampost or a tree, or getting run over by a car. The beach was full of people, but no animals, and certainly no dogs.
After going home I decided to go to the police for help, and they were great. A couple of the guys even spoke English, but the report was all written in Arabic. They promised to contact their offices at Hafa Beach and to look out for my dog. I drove around the beach a couple more times and went to work. I had a reading class, and we read a story about a man who had lost a horse, but it returned the next day with another horse. It was the last day of classes before exams and we had some reviewing to do- but my boss let me leave early to do some more searching.
Ahmed and his friend Mohammed came with me to search, we went to the plantations behind the fruit stands on Sultan Qaboos Street, and he spoke to some of the workers there. We gave a lot of them my number and a promise of 50 Rials if anyone found Safra. I got a lot of exercise that day slogging through the plantations and muddying my shoes- the same rubber sandals that she had chewed, and I had spanked her for. Walking in them was difficult with the straps almost chewed through, and it was a sad reminder. I felt so guilty for hitting her. This was the second pair of shoes that she had destroyed in a couple of months, but that was no excuse. Her kong and ball were on her little couch in the kitchen, and the flat was sad and empty. When Nelly came to clean she said she saw Safra watching her from the living room couch where she usually sits. Nelly speaks passable Arabic, much better than mine, and she came with me to look. We went to the old houses in Hafa. We went through the streets and lanes behind the beach and Nelly told the story of how she came to be missing. We talked to people having tea, and shopkeepers and anyone who would stop and talk to us. A barefoot little girl told us she had seen a dog wearing a long leash that morning, but that was 12 hours earlier, and there was no sign of her. We went to visit some friends of Nelly's, and I got a call from a fruit stand worker to say, "Your dog is in my garden." We excitedly hurried over there, but there was no sign of her, and it was getting dark. I took Nelly home and stopped at Al Baleed, the Palace and the Crowne Plaza to give them my number. The guard at the Sultan's Palace was not very friendly, and I asked a friend to translate that I didn't want to go in, and to please call me if they saw a brown dog dragging a leash. I drove back to Dahariz Beach where we usually go, but there was no sign of her.
Early the next morning I went to the same plantation where she was seen, and called, and a dog came running with its tail curled up like Safra's, but it ran away before I could get a good look. It was still not full light, and the dog was silhouetted against the palm leaves. The second day was like the first, spent walking in the plantations, calling for Safra and talking to the Indian workers. The plantations go on for miles and she could have been anywhere. A student at the college told me that there was "maybe" a car accident involving a dog. It was hard to stay positive. Some friends said "She may find her way home", but I was giving up hope. . I was getting discouraged, but thought it wouldn't hurt to send an email asking people to pray. I asked people to "think kind thoughts" if they didn’t want to pray, and sent it to friends all over the world.
The third morning I was up at 5 again, and sent an email to Judy, who used to live in Salalah with her two wadi dogs, Sawadi and Dahariz, named after the places she had found them. She was sympathetic, but told me sometimes people sell dogs who have been cared for. I wrote to her and told her I was losing hope, then took some food to the place I had seen the dog the day before. It turned out to be one of three wild dogs, and they devoured the fresh fish I put down for them on the roadside.
I had given up, and decided to give Safra's food away to the other wild dogs on Dahariz Beach, and care for them. I would be helping animals, and maybe I could evantually adopt another dog. I took her food in an opened tin and another tin with me, and saw some dogs on my way to the beach. They just barked at me when I put the dish down for them, so I picked up the food and put it in the back seat of the car, and continued driving to the beach. There were no other dogs around at all. I was looking for "Mandy" a wild dog and her family, but they were nowhere to be seen.
So, I was driving along the beach on my way home when I saw something moving on the left side of the car, heard a scuffling sound, and there she was: a very muddy, panting dog running to me, with about 18 inches of leash still around her neck! She seemed to be grinning as dogs do, when she leapt into my arms. I grabbed her and burst into tears! My face was wet from the hundreds of dog kisses, and my own tears. I was shaking with relief! What a Christmas present! Except for some small cuts, and the mud, she was okay, but ravenous. She wolfed down the food in the back seat, and slept most of the day.
I learned about the power of prayer that day, and Cathy said it was St. Anthony, the saint of lost things. I think it was the power of God, and good friends who cared about a woman and her missing dog. He knew that I would be in that place that day, and only God's perfect timing returned Safra to me. Praise God!
Monica Murphy - December 2009
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Five days in Syria
Getting There!
Expats in Salalah cannot travel to other countries as easily as people closer to Muscat, where the embassies are located. When I needed a visa for China on my last trip there, I drove the one and a half hours from Nizwa, filled out the application at the tiny Chinese visa office, and picked it up my passport-cum-visa the next day. Not so in Salalah. I had to send my passport by courier, with a no-objection letter from my company, two visa photos and twenty Rials; but, when I got to the DHL office they said they would not send the money! After a call to the company, they said that they would pay the 20 Rials and take it off my salary, when they picked up my passport. I thought I had jumped all of the hoops when the company said I needed a no-objection letter from my dean as well. He was out and didn't sign it until the following day, when it was sent to Muscat. I was told my passport had been sent to Salalah, but it didn’t' arrive, and my flight to Syria was booked for September 18 at 7:30 am, and on S eptember 17 I was down at Oman Transport with Farid, my company’s representative here in Salalah, looking at the brightly lit, but locked office. Finally the man came after about an hour, told us the document – my passport wasn’t there, but would “probably” be on the bus the next morning, that got in at 7:30 or 8:00! My chest was pounding and my head was aching, and Farid suggested going to the airport, which we did, but learned we couldn’t change the entire ticket there, only the Oman Air portion to Muscat. So we raced down to the travel agent Sajil, who was still open at 9:30 when we arrived- lucky for us- they usually close at 9:00, but he was busy booking Eid holidays, and the office was full. One of the Indian men kindly let me go ahead of him and we managed to change the ticket to the following day at the same time (for 20 Rials!).
Farid said he would be at my place at 6:30 the following evening, but I know Farid, and at 7:30 I called the company. He did show up at 8, passport in hand, and I took my first calm breath in two days!
Bombs!
The next morning there I was, at the airport at 6 for my 7:30 flight. Some of my students were there, but they didn’t have enough English to explain what they were doing there at that time. One of them said, “Syria? Dangerous. Too near Iran.” I didn’t take this seriously, but when I was trying to sleep that night after my Salalah to Muscat, Muscat to Abu Dhabi, and Abu Dhabi to Syria flights, I could hear bombs going off. Too tired to care, I dozed off fitfully.
The next morning I met up with Georgina, who had come from Nizwa 2 days previously, and her son William who had come from Budapest. As we left for Malula with our driver Nasser he was talking about the Eid holiday which had officially started with a bang: no bombs at all!
Aramaic
Malula is a charming Christian village, one of only 3 where the people speak Aramaic, the language of Jesus. We went into an ancient church where a woman was praying in that tongue- that sounded a lot like Arabic, but we were told it had similarities to Hebrew as well. There was a festive atmosphere- with a busload of Lebanese singing and dancing in the square. The front of the bus had a sign that said, “Jesus Blesses Me” and the one on the back said, “Copilot: God is the pilot!”
William had a stomach ailment, so Georgina and I went to the souq in the evening on our own. This was a long, covered barn of a place- open at both ends, and we walked the entire mile long length of it. We were invited to "see my shop" by an enterprising shopkeeper, and we examined a lot of beautiful tablecloths of many sizes and colours. I was interested in a lovely dark green one, a "Damascene" cloth, with blue highlights. These Damascene cloths are top quality linen and they come in a wide variety of colours. I bought the green one for two and a half pounds- about $50- mashine washable, and it was a perfect fit for my table here in Salalah!
The following day we left early with our driver Issam, as Nasser was busy. The plan was to visit the "Krac de Chevalier," a Crusader Castle from the Middle Ages, and then to go and see Dr. Issam, a Syrian we met in Nizwa who had invited us to his home.
The castle is one of the most important preserved medieval military castles in the world. In Arabic it's called Hisn Al Akrad, or Castle of the Kurds. It's an enormous edifice, dominating the entire mountainside, with an inner wall 100 feet thick, and seven guard towers 30 feet in diameter. It housed over 2000 soldiers, as well as the Hospitallers (headquarters of the Knights Hospitaller during the Crusades). It is estimated that the Hospitallers could have withstood a siege of 5 years! This fortress was described as "perhaps the best preserved and most wholly admirable castle in the world" by T.E. Lawrence. It was made a World Heritage Site in 2006, and is owned by the Syrian government. Definitely worth a visit!
One attraction nearby is the authentic restaurant next door, which has a bird's eye location, and the owner was a very attractive attraction as well; however we were invited to visit Issam, and we had to find his place first.
The narrow road to Issam's place skirted the mountainside, and wound around picturesque villages and olive groves. It was delightful, after the busyness of Damascus. After about half an hour, Issam started to ask for directions, and we were directed to a side road where we parked and walked towards the cheery "Hello!' coming from behind the trees. We enjoyed fruit, coffee then a delicious lunch with the two Issams, Noor, the precocious four year old, Rula, the gorgeous mom, and baby Heya. The "cottage" is a stone house with a verandah all around it, and fruit trees in the back- a peaceful, idyllic place for his two girls to grow up! Issam gave us pomegranates to take home, after many photos and good wishes. All in all it was an enjoyable day, dampened in part by Issam the driver's request for "another 500 pounds" because we had changed the itinerary. (The entire trip was full of surprises like that!)
There were 3 days holiday for Eid- and the big market was so full it took 30 minutes to walk 500 metres, with everyone pushing and jostling each other. At the ice cream place people were coming out holding their cones like torches high above their heads, out of the crush of humanity.
The Hammam
Georgina wanted to try the "hammam" or bath, so Bayan showed me one close to the hotel. Ladies were welcome in the afternoons, and we were greeted with "You are welcome." They took us into an ancient marble bath, where we sat in a steam room and a bosomy lady scrubbed us all over with a rough cloth. It felt wonderful, but of course we had to pay extra for the mitt and soap that we took home with us. The room, with its cracked yellow marble and small vents looked like it had been there since Roman times.
Cain and Abel
Bayan, the front desk manager, had told us to go and see "The place where Cain killed Abel" at the top of the city, so we met a man in a tiny pick up truck with only one seat next to the driver and two on benches in the back. We climbed to the top of the hill overlooking the city, switching back and forth on hairpin turns, narrow and treacherous, and we finally arrived in a slum at the base of the last part of the mountain and parked. Bayan had told us not to pay the driver until later, who promised to pick us up in an hour, and we started the ascent of the 70 steps to the top. (He seemed worried about our return, but everything turned out okay.) They were wide ones with railings, and, finally, there we were- looking down on a panoramic view of Damascus, with mostly grey buildings bisected with a strip of green forest down the middle. After seeing the cave at the top, and chatting with a man who told us his job was to safeguard the museum, we met a Syrian family on the way down the silver stairway, who told us they were enjoying the fresh air on the mountain.
The Christian Quarter
We spent our last day in Damascus in the Christian Quarter. Georgina said it was less crowded, cleaner, and the stores were cheaper than in the other areas. We found the House of Ananais, which is now a church. Ananais was the priest who restored Paul's sight after he was blinded on his way to Damascus, and he was later martyred, as was Paul. We also found St. Paul's Chapel, believed to be the place where he was let down the city walls in a basket to escape the Jews. Some of the original stones were on display, and there was a church service going on. The people invited us to join them, and they turned out to be a group of Brits on a 10 day pilgrimage. They were a friendly group, and the canon's wife sang beautiful acapella! We went for pizza afterwards, and found the street we were on was the famous Straight Street where Paul had his sight restored. I bought a nice silver necklace, but it needs restringing!
I would like to go to Syria again sometime, to see some of the other famous sites, now I know where to go.
Monica Murphy - November 2009
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A Big Surprise, or Two Dogs, Two Friends in a Peugeot
I left Safra with a man downtown for the summer, and when I got back I heard from a friend that she was “getting fat.” Well, getting fat wasn’t the problem. There was another dog in the building, and somehow the two of them got together-got to “know” each other in the biblical sense! Arman even took a photo of them in the act! He said not to worry, that he had “cut the balls off the other dog himself!” I was concerned, because I had had problems with one dog, and didn’t want any more. Not many Omanis love dogs the way we do in the West, and I took Safra to Bob, the vet for large animals, who said she was “probably pregnant” but to bring her back in a couple of weeks to make sure. I was going to let nature take its course and wait for my granddogs to arrive, but when I called the vet in Muscat she said to bring her in as soon as possible. “But I thought you were coming here to spay her,” I wailed, with visions of the 1000 km trip ahead of me. “Oh, I’m just too busy here, she explained. You can drive up in a few hours. Haven’t you driven it before?”
I resigned myself to driving to Muscat, but I didn’t want to do it alone. Fortunately, Allen, the man who adopted Tuffy, Safra’s brother, was able to come, and Tuffy needed some shots. Allen was also off on Wednesday, the only day they scheduled surgeries. This meant driving all night on a poorly lit road, but it would be cooler and hopefully very little traffic.
We set off Tuesday night about 9:30, and Allen had just came home from Thumrait, 70 km away, where he works, and he had driven it twice already that day so he asked me to take over after a couple of hours. There were no street lights, just reflectors, and not even these in places where they are installing a new road. I had been on the road by bus, but never by private car. Vehicles were easy to see from a distance, and I could see their headlights from a long way off; most of them belonging to big heavy trucks. Most of them dimmed their lights on approaching, and some of them flashed them in greeting as we passed each other.
We stopped several times for potty breaks for the dogs and for us, so it took 12 hours altogether to reach Muscat. The vet’s office had asked me not to feed Safra after 9 pm, and on one of the stops she slipped off her collar to eat some chicken morsels near the garbage bin. She played “Catch me if you can” with us until Allen grabbed her by the leg and gave her a swift smack on the hip. Subdued, she sulked in the back seat for a long time.
We took turns driving, but I had trouble nodding off when it was my turn to rest, even though Allen did most of the driving. Too much coffee I guess. I spilled coffee all down the front of my shirt, and over my trousers, luckily already mocha coloured!
We were driving in my little Peugeot- all four of us, because Allen wasn’t allowed to drive his comfortable 4 by 4 all the way to Muscat- a company vehicle. It was cosy, and I was glad the dogs weren’t full grown! Safra is used to having the back seat all to herself, so there was some growling and snapping when Tuffy infringed on her territory at one point.
We watched the sky gradually lightening, and when we reached Muscat the sun was climbing high in the sky. We got there in time for the morning rush hour, and the traffic heading east was deadlocked. Everyone was heading towards Ruwi for work, and we were trying to get to Qurm in that direction. This is when we started having trouble with the air conditioner; the air got warmer and warmer, in spite of us trying different things, and it eventually stopped altogether. We weren’t sure where the hospital was, the dogs were panting in the back, I could feel my dirty clothes on my back and needed a tooth brush. Tempers were getting frazzled, and we finally found the place after several runs to the beach and around the construction detours. It was the worst part of the trip. What a relief when we walked in that door out of the sticky heat and into the coolness of the air conditioning. I always say that air conditioning is my best friend, and it has been ever since I have been in Oman!
We left the dogs, and stopped at City Centre where I bought a dress as a change of clothes, as I was still wearing my coffee-stained pants and shirt. We went to our hotel on the Corniche, appropriately called “The Corniche” where I had stayed before. Not surprisingly, they wouldn’t take the dogs, or even one dog, and neither would the hotel next door. When we called the vet’s they said that well-behaved Tuffy had bitten one of the office staff, and wouldn’t let the receptionist in her office! I guess everything was just too much for him. They didn’t have room for the dogs for the night, but soon afterwards Laura, the receptionist, called back and said her brother had a boarding kennels and space for them there!
The only remaining problem was the air conditioner. I drove all the way from the Corniche to the airport in heavy traffic again- this time with people going home the other way. There was a slight breeze with all the windows open, but I had to go all the way to Zubair, because the Shell man had told me that it was “An electrical problem”
Zubair is a very busy place, and I was worried they wouldn’t be able to fix my AC in one day. I found the repair centre- just for Peugeots, and, again, cool air welcomed me as I opened the door, and also a very nice man, Simon, the manager, greeted me and assured me they would help me and get me moving as soon as they could. (I had blurted out “I need to drive to Salalah with two dogs and we have no AC!”) He was wonderful; and when the car was filled with AC gas and ready to go I was told “No charge!” One of the other men told me Simon is a very good manager, and he certainly calmed this woman down!
The ride back to the Corniche was a lot more comfortable, and we went to pay the bill at the vet’s (105 Rials for Safra!) and took them to the kennels, where they could have used the barking as the sound track for “101 Dalmations” or “101 Mongrels.” All the dogs in their “private rooms” greeted us loudly and enthusiastically when we brought in their new cell mates: Safra with a plastic cone around her neck like a canine Queen Elizabeth.
The ride back was mercifully uneventful, and we did it in 9 hours with Allen driving all the way. A big thank you to Allen!
Monica Murphy - October 2009
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Catastrophes in Canada!
This year it was going to be different. I wasn’t going to spend a lot of money and time taking buses, trains and ferries all over BC to visit my family and friends. I was going to rent a car, stay in the same place and make life easier for myself. This isn’t quite what happened.
I left Oman on July 7, flying from Salalah to Muscat, Muscat to Dubai, Dubai to Hong Kong and Hong Kong to Vancouver, where I arrived a day later after two days of traveling! As I staggered off the plane my legs felt like foam rubber, and all I could think was “I hope they didn’t lose my bags like they did the last time!” Well, after most of the passengers on my flight had left the carousel and the bags started coming from the London flight I went to the Cathay Pacific counter with my baggage tags “Your bags are still in Muscat”, I was told. I went to meet my brother and tell him the news. My nephew’s jogging pants fit me, and I wore them and an old sweatshirt for the next four days until my bags arrived- with no apology from the airline. When the bags finally arrived the man told me he had no trouble finding the place with his GPS.
We went to the car rental place the first thing the next morning, and I was told that none of my credit cards would work; and so I couldn’t rent a car. I liked the car rental girl, Jen, and she offered me a ride to the bus depot. I treated her to an A & W breakfast at the drive-through. After many calls I finally got through to Royal Bank Visa in Toronto, and they promised to send the new visa card to the bank in Mission where my brother lives.
So- off to Vancouver Island on the bus- an all day trip, but I had a lot of time to enjoy the scenery. Nanaimo is a one and a half hour ferry ride, and the Gulf Islands are beautiful at any time of year. I was chatting with Nell, an older lady I had met on the bus, and we didn’t hear the announcement telling us to go back to our bus two decks below. The vessel stopped, we went down the metal stairway and gaped at the big empty space where our bus had been! The ferry workers said we would have to take a taxi to the bus depot, and so we ran across the terminal and into a taxi and up a hill and there was the bus! “Going back to Vancouver, mam” the driver said. I had missed my connecting bus by 3 minutes!My next bus wasn’t for another 6 and a half hours, so, after a long discussion with the men behind the counter I took a taxi to the highway and the driver said he could take me to Courtenay for $100- not the usual fare of $160. I was used to my trips from Nizwa to Muscat for 5 or 6 Rials. It was just too much money, so I decided to hitchhike. The taxi driver kindly waited for for the first car to pick me up- a nice couple from Parksville, who let me use their cellphone. They dropped me off the other side of Qualicum- still an hour away from Courtenay. They let me off at the bottom of a hill “Where people can see you” and there I was with my bags for at least half an hour! A lot of people came down that hill, but sped up when they saw me. I’m not 20 any more and I guess it shows! Finally a man in a pick up truck stopped and told me to put my bags in the back. He didn’t want me to use his phone or to take me to the bus depot, but didn’t mind after I paid him $10. What a long tiring trip!
After a few days near Courtenay and one night in a pricey bed and breakfast (my first time), I went to use my Bank Dhofar ATM card, and- guess what- it didn’t work! The manager at the CIBC bank, where it should have worked, let me call the number in Oman on the back of the card, and I finally got through. The Omani man said they were having problems and to “try again in half an hour.” When I tried again it still didn’t work. Nancy, the friend I was staying with likes thrift shops, and it’s a good thing because I couldn’t afford anything expensive. After repeated calls to the bank with no response we decided to send a fax, and we wrote out all the information re Swift Codes, and Bank of America, etc. etc. etc. Nancy said we could send it from the office where she lives, on a mountain 20 kilometres from downtown Qualicum, and we walked there from her place. The secretary was away, so Tim, the manager said he would help us, but, after several tries the fax still didn’t go through so we went into town. We tried to send it at the TDCanadaTrust- my bank, but it still didn’t go through. I had $20 left. We asked the manager if she would keep trying, and left the phone number with her. The phone was blinking when we got back, and there it was: a message to say that after several more tries the fax did go through, and I got an email from the Omani manager to say they had wired the money!
A few days later I left the Island, and Ginny picked me up at the bus and took me to her home in North Vancouver. I was leaving for China in a couple of weeks, so the next morning I went to the Chinese Consulate to get my.visa After waiting in line for half an hour I was told I couldn’t use my British passport I was tr.avelling with. So the next day I went there again with my Canadian passport, and they said they wouldn’t accept it because it was going to expire soon. My next stop was the passport office, and they told me they needed proof that I was a Canadian, even though I had a Canadian passport in my hand! They wanted me to fill out a three page application, send $75 to Ottawa for a certificate of citizenship by registered mail and have some more photos taken. (The ones I had taken for the visa would not suffice!) Ginny and I stopped in at a travel agency to ask if I could get a visa in China and the woman went to ask one of her colleagues. She came back and said I couldn’t-but I called a Chinese travel agency and they said I could get a visa at the Hong Kong airport, but I still wasn’t sure until I got to the airport!
After a week in North Van I returned to Abbotsford to see Gene and Gail, my brother and sister-in-law. “Sure!” Gene said when he picked me up at the bus and I asked if I could pick up my credit card. We stopped at the bank, I went to the information desk, and the man there said, “Sorry, we destroyed it yesterday.”
So- no car after all! At the airport I prayed hard with Diane, who I just happened to meet at midnight at the airport. The girl had sent a fax to see if they could check me in, and a few minutes later she got the okay!
Not all of my vacation was a disaster. I enjoyed reconnecting with family and friends, but I can’t wait to return to Salalah!
Monica Murphy - September 2009
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She came to me on February 21
She came to me on February 21, a little less than 2 months ago. I received a call that morning from a friend who had been contacted by the vet, asking if she knew of anyone who would be interested in adopting a little dog. I had told her I would like to “hear the patter of little feet” again, and would like to have either a cat or a dog. (I was secretly hoping for a dog though, because I had been owned by several cats in the past, and was fed up with their contrary ways. Cats always have to love you on their terms, and often walk away with their tails in the air if they are “not in the mood!”
Dogs are different. They give you unconditional love, are not moody and their owners are the most important people in the lives. They’re not afraid to show affection and they do it willingly.
My little one was cowering next to a tree the day I met her, and when it was time to take her home she rested against my chest as a dead weight, and didn’t stir when I put her on the passenger seat of the car. I think she was traumatized, because she had lost her brother and her mother the same day. (Her mother ran away from the vet and her brother was adopted by a family in Al Bustan.)
She lay on a blanket on the couch for the whole night, and seemed quite content to lie on my chest without moving. (She didn’t smell very clean, so I gave her a bath a couple of days later without too much trouble). The next day she had some water and some dog food I got from Lulu’s and made her first “deposit” on the floor of my hallway. It was great having such a passive animal at my home, but things quickly changed.
After about 3 days she started exploring, and chewing everything within reach of her sharp little baby teeth. My slippers, my bedside mat, and some towels were the first to go. She had her own little towel, but it was quickly shredded into small pieces. About this time she found her voice too, a noisy, prolonged bark every time she saw one of the neighbours outside coming or going to work.
She gradually came outside, and “christened” all the mats outside the door, at the foot of the stairs and outside my next door neighbour’s place. I asked Wasu the caretaker to get rid of them before there were any more accidents.
The landlord, Salim, seemed to like my puppy, and even wanted to borrow her to show his children, but she was still very timid and shy so I declined. ( My neighbour, Trygva, said he probably wanted to take her out of town!)
Ellen, the cleaning lady was a great help. I had thought I had a boy, but she assured me it was a girl dog, and that what was sticking out was really just pubic hair! Then there was the problem with the name. Jamil was a good name for a boy, but Trygva said I couldn’t give the dog a person’s name; some folks may not like it, so I started looking in my Arabic book for a name for my Arabic dog. She’s a brownish yellow with a white belly and legs, but I called her Safra (yellow) instead of Samra (brown) because I thought she would hear the “f” sound better. After all, I am an English teacher.
Trygva, who lives upstairs, has been a great help with Safra. She had a big dog in New York City, so she’s well experienced with the species. Whenever Safra sees her she wiggles her behind and pees on the floor, and so does Trygva, minus the peeing!
My neighbour’s little daughter was so excited by the dog, at first, and would poke her fingers and make sudden movements around her. I showed her how to pet gently, but she would always get excited and forget. Her mother started complaining about the dog, and no matter how vigilant I was about cleaning up after her she would say the dog was dirty. She still let Essil come and play with her, but she was getting more and more nasty about the dog. One day I tried to resolve the problem and went to talk to her, had some tea and cake, and I thought things were okay between us.
But it wasn’t. It all came to a head one evening when I was trying to get Safra to come in, and she was running around outside. (She refused to wear a leash, and wouldn’t come in when I called her. My neighbour was standing outside the door, and whenever Safra came close she would whoosh her away. She got into her car, and I thought she was going to run over poor little Safra, she was in such an angry state of mind.
The next morning Wasu came to tell me that Salim wanted to see me. He was sitting in his huge vehicle looking down on me and said that I had to “make a decision.” Hanan came out and I tried to talk to her but she shook her finger at me and said, “Don’t speak to me.” We haven’t spoken since, and I try to avoid contact with her at all. Her little girl did come to a party I had last weekend, but the maid came and scolded her for being with the dog.
A couple of days later the landlord’s kids were all in the garden and had a great time playing with the dog, and one of his relatives said “no problem” with letting her run free. I felt relieved until a few days later when I was out walking Safra (finally with the leash) and Salim greeted me with “So you still have it!” When I asked what “It” was he said, “The dog.” She had left a “deposit” near the fountain!
Since that time I have been very careful with Safra, She’s a lot of work, but well worth it. A vet came from Muscat a few weeks ago, and was going to do a “bitch spay” on my kitchen table, but she postponed it because her instruments weren’t sterile and also because Safra is only four months old, not the five and a half I was told originally. What a relief!
We spend a lot of time at the beach these days, and I’m looking forward to a visit from a dog trainer, who is coming from Muscat soon, and has already given me some great advice about the little creature.
By the way- I’m planning to go back to Canada for the summer, so if anyone would like a little friend to spend time with their kids this summer I’m looking for a home for her for a few weeks. She has learned to walk on the leash, and to “sit” and we’re working on some other behavioural skills. If you have any questions please call me at 9278-6289.
Thanks! Monica Murphy (P.S. It was fun meeting Richard, Gilly and Mark from my previous article!) - May 2009
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Subaru Car Care Tip
Save Money and Stay Safe
Planning to vacation by car this summer? Getting the right preventative maintenance before you leave can help prevent roadside delays, and even increase your gas mileage!
Our service experts recommend checking these systems:
Oil and Filter. Fresh filters help provide better fuel economy, smoother running and optimum power. Oil is your engine's lifeblood. It is extremely important that the engine oil and filter be changed regularly, and especially before a long trip. Change the oil and oil filter according to the maintenance schedule in the Warranty and Maintenance Booklet.
Tires. To extend tire life, keep wear uniform, and help ensure that you don't get stranded at the roadside, have your car's tires rotated if they haven't been within the last 7,500 miles. Any unevenly worn or damaged tires should be replaced. Also, check and adjust your tire pressure according to the tire placard on the inside driver's door frame for the best fuel economy, ride comfort and handling.
Cooling system. A properly functioning cooling system is critical to engine operation. It is recommended that the cooling system and hose connections be checked frequently for leaks, damage or looseness.
Air conditioning system. A malfunctioning air conditioning system can make a long ride unbearable. Keep your cool! Have your system checked for refrigerant leaks, hose conditions and efficient operation before you depart. Also...Check all lights, mirrors, safety belts, dashboard instruments, windshield wipers and all fluid levels.
Your best bet. Consider taking advantage of the 25-point Vehicle Inspection offered by many Subaru dealers. A Subaru-trained technician will perform a thorough, multi-point inspection of your Subaru, paying special attention to safety and maintenance items.
Proper preventative maintenance can help ensure that your vehicle provides safe and trouble-free motoring throughout your travels. Have a safe trip, and please buckle up.
- Subaru, April 2009
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An expat in Salalah
I am fairly new to Salalah and the Dhofar Region, but I have been living and teaching in Oman for 3 years, in Nizwa, the mountain city one and a half hours inland from Muscat. Three years was enough in Nizwa, though I still have friends there and miss places like beautiful Jebal Akhdar, covered with roses in April and with lovely little villages on the top. I went there for my 60th birthday three years ago, and stayed at the hotel at the top. Jebel Shams was lovely too, even though I only went there once, and hiked along the rim road along the perimeter of the mountain with a sheer drop on one side. Not a place for sleepwalking, but the scenery was spectacular.
I had visited Salalah four times before deciding to move here to work. I wanted a quiet place to write, work on my water colours, and complete a Master’s online. I had no idea what else awaited me here. I have new friendships, a rustic apartment on a banana plantation, and a new job, where the students are definitely nicer than those in Nizwa, and friendly colleages to boot.
Some other differences between Nizwa and Salalah are, first, that this is a very conservative place, and there is no mixing at all between male and female students, (even though one of the boys told me his “hobby was looking at the girls.”) Boys and girls have separate stairways, and separate cafeterias, which we had in Nizwa, but there we could get the students to work together for pair work and the girls didn’t hesitate to write on the board or read aloud. Not here! The girls sit in the back of the room where the boys can’t see them and refuse to mix with the male members of the class.
Another difference is the dress, and even though the students have to wear a uniform, the white dishdasha for the boys and the black abeya for the girls, they still manage to express their individuality – the girls with large spongy colored buns they wear under their headscarves, and the boys their turbans with tassels on the ends, especially the Jebalis, the mountain men. Some of the girls have the fashion of “one eyebrow” and draw a line right across their eyes, giving them a puzzled look.
I attend a church here, and it’s in a large compound together with several other faiths- Pakistani, Roman Catholic, and others. Ours is the English Speaking Fellowship, and many of the members speak English as a second or third language. It’s a colourful place, with 16 nationalities represented.
My latest news is that I have become a new mother- well, adopted mother of a cute little puppy from the wadi. He’s only 5 months old, and still very shy after losing his mother and sister in one day, but he licked my hands and even kissed me on the nose today, so I think we’re going to become great friends.
I love living in Salalah, and always welcome new friends, so if you want to get together for some food, or drink, or walks on the beach please call me at 9278-6289.
- Monica Murphy, March 2009
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Special Offers
July & August are traditionally a quite time for expatriates in the Gulf region as businesses slow down in line with the school holidays. This makes it a perfect time to review your finances and start the savings, life assurance, pension or investment you have been considering for some time. With this in mind, Candour Consultancy are offering a range of special offers on offshore savings, pensions and investments to our newsletter readers. These include:
Offer 1
Throughout July, we will offer a 1% bonus on all lump sum investments. All offshore bonds, capital guaranteed funds and tax-efficient investments will receive 101% allocation of the initial investment.
Find out more!
Offer 2
Throughout July, we are offering one free contribution on all offshore savings and pension plans with a term of at least 10 years and a monthly contribution level of US$ 500 or more.
Find out more!
Offer 3
In addition, for investments over US$ 500,000 and regular contribution offshore savings and pension plans with monthly contributions of US$ 1,500 or more, Candour Consultancy will cover the cost of having the policyholders Will rewritten to take their new asset into consideration.
Find out more!
Life Assurance
For those not feeling quite so lucky, now may be the time to consider life assurance. Whether you are looking to protect your family or repay a loan in the event of your death, life Insurance premiums are currently at their lowest ever rate – and we have searched the market to find the cheapest for you!
The market has never been so competitive; in turn, this has forced insurance companies to offer better policies at lower prices. At Candour Consultancy, we make sure you get the best deal possible.
Get a quote now!
For those who already have insurance in place, it is always worth asking whether your current policy is the fantastic value for money it could be? If you have already taken out a Life Insurance policy then the chances are high that you can either:
Below are some sample quotations:
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Gender
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Age
|
Sum Assured
|
Monthly Premium
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Female
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25
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 17.70
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Male
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25
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 31.75
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Female
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35
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 30.75
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Male
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35
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 38.40
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Female
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45
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 66.30
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Male
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45
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US$ 300,000
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US$ 88.80
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The life insurance quotations above are correct as of 30/06/2007 and apply to a level term assurance quote for $300,000 over 15 years on non-smoker rates. A term of 15 years has been chosen to tie in with the standard mortgage term for expatiates in the Gulf region. All premiums are guaranteed for the term of the policy.
Get a quote now
- Candour Consultancy, August 2007
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Retirement
Most people want to work longer in old age, rather than retire completely, suggests new research. That's the main finding of a survey for the bank HSBC into attitudes to retirement in 20 different countries and regions around the world.
72% of respondents in the survey said they wanted to see mandatory retirement ages scrapped. Researchers surveyed 21,000 people and 6,000 employers in the bank's second international study.
Among UK respondents, 68% said they wanted flexible working arrangements in later life, as opposed to 12% who wanted to continue working full-time, and 20% who never wanted to do paid work again.
Flexible Retirement
HSBC's adviser on global ageing, Dr Ken Dychtwald said: "We came out of the last century with the belief that retirement was better than work, and that what people really wanted to do was to stop working and just lounge and socialise for their remaining years.
"70% of the population said they wanted to be working in retirement. They don't want full time work either, they want part-time, flex-time, maybe even trying their hand at a new career."
The survey also found that the attitude of the workforce did not chime with the attitudes of employers. The researchers discovered that many employers had not yet realised that times were changing and still believed there would be a never-ending supply of young workers.
But Dr Dychtwald said because of declining birth rates in previous decades this was just not going to happen. "There is a real mismatch between what the world wants in terms of new models of work in later years but we saw that most employers were not really being responsive to these new possibilities" he said.
Many countries are starting to introduce age discrimination legislation which stops employers from forcing people to retire before the age of 65. However, when people do eventually retire, 88% of them are going to need some income to supplement their part-time salaries.
You can start saving towards your retirement with a little as £100 or US$ 150 per month. Contact Candour Consultancy specialise in retirement planning for expatriates and will help you find the right vehicle to meet your offshore savings requirements.
- Candour Consultancy, July 2007
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Is it time to Invest in US Dollars?
With the exchange rate over £1.00 to US$ 2.00, now may be the ideal time for Sterling investors to consider investing in US Dollars.
Last week the US Dollar hit an all-time low against the Euro and a 26 year low again Sterling and, whilst there is no immediate signs of a recovery, in all likelihood it will be closer the long-term average of £1.00 = US$ 1.55 in 3, 5 or 10 years time. With this in mind, investors should consider the option of establishing their offshore savings or investments in Dollars.
Both offshore account and offshore bonds will continue to grow tax-efficiently regardless of the currency that they are established in and offshore bonds will continue to benefit from their other tax advantages; such as the ability to withdraw 5% per annum with the tax deferred and time apportionment relief which allows the bondholder to substantially reduce any potential capital gains tax liability in the future. Additionally, there could be favourable growth benefits.
If the exchange rate does revert to the long-term average, there are huge gains to be made when it becomes time to switch back to Sterling. For example, an investment of £200,000 into a US Dollar based offshore bond would give the bond an initial value of US$ 400,000. Assuming just 6% growth per annum, the bond would be worth in the region of US$ 535,500 in 5 years time. If at that time, the exchange rate is back to the long-term average, this would equate to £345,500 – a massive 73% increase from just 6% per annum growth in low risk funds!
Even if the exchange rate had just fallen back to £1 = US$ 1.75, the Sterling value would still be US$ 306,000 – as compared to £267,500 if the bond was established in Sterling and has achieved the same growth rate.
For those who wish to keep their savings in Sterling and still take advantage of the exchange rate, the offshore bond has just the flexibility you need. A Sterling bond can purchase US Dollar denominated funds very cheaply and can sell these at any time without penalty or a taxable event occurring; this means that, should you feel the US Dollar is at a high in 2 or 3 years time, you can immediately switch out of Dollars and into Sterling at that time (or even Euros if preferable). Additionally, purchasing the funds through the bond means you by them at net asset value and do not pay hefty brokers fees or bid-offer spreads.
Naturally, playing the currency markets does add an additional element of risk with some analysts’ believing the Dollar will weaken even further before it strengthens, but it is an option worth considering to all but the most risk adverse of investors.
- Candour Consultancy, June 2007
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THE YEAR OF THE GOLDEN PIG
From all of us at Candour Consultancy, welcome to the year of the Golden Pig!
The year of the golden pig is synonymous with wealth and good fortune. Tradition and folklaw is backed up by fund managers who predict that many markets will reach new highs over the next 12 months. It is likely to be another 600 years until the next year of the golden pig so make sure you do not miss out now!
New Year, New Opportunities
Candour Consultancy is offering access to an even wider range of tax-efficient investment funds this year. With an investment as low as US$ 15,000 (£10,000, Euro 15,000), you can access an awarding winning range of nearly 100 funds that includes:
- Property fund managed by Morgan Stanley
- India fund managed by Jardine Fleming
- China Growth fund Managed by First State
- Latin America fund managed by Baring
- Eastern Europe fund managed by JP Morgan
- Emerging Markets fund managed by Templeton
- Commodity & Futures fund managed by Man AHL Diversified Futures Ltd
Investors can hold up to 10 funds at any one time and switch between funds (free of charge) as market conditions dictate.
Unsure of Market Levels? - Invest from US$ 150 (£100, Euro 150) per month
If you are concerned about market movements but would still like to invest offshore, then Candour Consultancy also offers a regular contribution version of the investment. Not only does it provide you with the ability to spread your money over a wide range of market sectors, from some of the best fund managers in the market, but you also have the opportunity to invest your money on a regular basis.
Make sure the year of the golden pig is a golden year for you by contacting Candour Consultancy.
- Candour Consultancy, March 2007
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RETIREMENT PLANNING
Retirement planning for expatriates can be difficult. Many expatriates not only change jobs but also countries throughout their career – each time stopping pension contributions when they move and then having to start saving again once they are settled in their new job.
This has a huge impact on the expatriates’ pension as many months of contributions are missed and those that are made never really get the chance to benefit from compounded growth.
However, there is an alternative. Many offshore financial institutions offer international pension plans. These policies have several features designed specifically for expatriates which include:
- The ability to contribute to your pension regardless of where you are resident in the world
- The pension will continue to grow tax-efficiently regardless of where you are resident in the world
- Should you need to suspend contributions when you move countries/jobs, you can do so without penalty
- Should you need to reduce contributions because you move to somewhere with higher living expenses, you can reduce contributions without penalty
- You can access valuations and fund details online, regardless of where you are
- You can increase contributions or add lump sums if desired
By purely offering the ability to allow the expatriate continuity in their pension contributions, the effect on the amount of money they have at retirement can be huge.
For example, let’s look at an individual who has 35 years until retirement and can currently afford to contribute US$ 200 a month.
In the first scenario, the individual reacts to this article and asks Candour Consultancy to advise on the most suitable pension plan. After our recommendation, they sign up to the pension plan within one month. They contribute US$ 200 every month for the rest of their working life.
Thirty five years later, their pension fund has grown, let's say, by 7.5% a year after charges. The pension pot has reached US$ 325,200 after contributing US$ 84,000 in total.
In a second scenario, the individual dithers for a year before contributing US$ 200 every month for the rest of his working life. Thirty four years later, at a rate of 7.5% per annum the pension pot has grown to US$ 300,200. They have contributed US$ 81,600, just US$ 2,400 less than he did in scenario one, and yet their pension pot is smaller by a massive US$ 25,000!
Looking at this from another angle, given the same growth rate and the same product, the individual would have to contribute an additional US$ 4,000 over the 34 year term to produce the same pension pot as in scenario one; i.e. over a 35 year term.
In a third scenario, one which most expatriates can relate to, the individual starts contributing straight away, but they have to reduce the contribution level to US$ 100 a month for a year when they relocate. This is in the fifth year of the pension plan.
Though they have only contributed US$ 1,200 more than in scenario two, their pension pot at the end is US$ 320,200; US$ 20,000 more than in scenario two primarily because the pension has benefited from compounded interest for longer.
I think the lessons we learn here are obvious and the above examples really ram home how important it is to start saving earlier rather than later.
How can Candour Consultancy help?
Candour Consultancy is an authorised introducer to many of the worlds leading offshore financial institutions. All our consultants are UK qualified to advise on and recommend the most suitable pension policy for your personal circumstances.
Additionally, Candour Consultancy offer several value added features such as enhanced terms and our portfolio service.
To request that a consultant contacts you, just click here and provide us with your preferred contact details. With Candour Consultancy there is no charge for our advice, no obligation or no hard sell.
- Candour Consultancy, February 2007
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STOCK MARKETS
Over the past two weeks, stock markets around the world have been falling sharply, as fears grow over the prospect of higher US interest rates. The market upheaval has also pushed down the price of commodities, such as oil and gold, and many currencies. Consequently, there has been nowhere to hide for those with savings and investment policies and we have all seen the value of our policies temporarily drop. Why has this happened?
Some analysts fear the volatility could be a forerunner to more serious turmoil, with a sharp turnaround in expectations about the future course of inflation. Others believe this is simply a ‘correction’ in the market and the effect will be short-lived. Either way, this article should help explain the reasons behind the falls.
Why are share and commodity prices falling?
There are a number of factors behind the current dip, not least the perception that prices may have been too high in the first place. In the past two years, shares in some companies have risen by as much as a third, prompting the need for a correction as the markets recoil from arguably overvalued stocks.
Commodities are also seen as having overshot the mark, although no-one would deny that there are solid economic reasons for the soaring prices of oil and precious metals. Growth in major emerging markets such as China and India has boosted world demand for crude, which has been at or near the $70-a-barrel mark for nearly a year now. Oil has fallen 6% in the past week, while gold is 4.5% lower and copper is down 5.2%. However, these are modest retreats that still leave commodities trading at a far higher level than last year. Copper, in particular, has risen 85% since 2006 began.
But why is all this happening now?
The latest figures from the world's biggest economy, the US, have been concentrating investors' minds in recent days. US consumer prices rose by 0.6% during April, which was faster than analysts had expected.
At the same time, US industrial output was also beating forecasts. It surged by 0.8%, raising concerns of inflationary price rises as American factories approach their production limits.
If the US economy starts to overheat and inflation goes up, one way of reining it in is to curb the money supply by making borrowing more expensive - in other words, raising interest rates. The US central bank, the Federal Reserve, is clearly worried about a resurgence of inflation. It has put up interest rates by a quarter-point at each of its last 16 meetings, and investors had hoped that rates would now hold steady at 5%. However, the Fed's boss, Ben Bernanke, is giving little away about his future intentions, and some observers believe his instincts will be to keep prices under control even at the risk of harming growth.
Why would higher interest rates prompt a share sell-off?
Investors have a choice of destinations for their money, depending on the economic circumstances at the time.
Shares, as any financial advisor will tell you, can go down as well as up, while bonds and savings accounts offer a fixed rate of return and are less inherently risky. When interest rates are low, an investor stands to make more money from shares. But when interest rates are high, bonds become more attractive as a safe haven for your money - so it makes sense for investors to sell their stocks and shift the cash to fixed-rate investments.
What other damage can higher interest rates do?
There are fears that further interest rate rises could aggravate existing imbalances in the world economy. The record $742bn US trade deficit has long worried the markets, as the value of US imports continues to outstrip the amount that the country can sell to the rest of the world.
The $400bn US budget deficit - the gap between the government's income and its expenditure - also shows little sign of decreasing. And it's not only the US government that is spending too much. The country's five-year housing boom has fuelled consumer spending, which accounts for 70% of US GDP, by encouraging homeowners to borrow against the rising value of their properties. But higher interest rates would lead to higher mortgage rates, putting consumers under pressure and jeopardising the health of the economy.
What do the experts say?
The experts are split on whether this is the end of a positive ‘bull’ run on the worlds stock markets or whether this is purely a short term correction to bring prices back to a realistic ‘base level’ before growth continues.
Whilst some analysts are convinced that recent market upheaval could be a forerunner to more serious turmoil, with a sharp turnaround in expectations about the future course of inflation and interest rates worldwide, towards the end of last week more and more analysts and bankers were stating that investors were being overly cautious and higher interest rates (if they did arise) would be no reason to see a change in the current trend of rises in the commodities and equity markets.
So what should I do?
Unfortunately, we cannot answer this question for you. Without a crystal ball, all we can do is explain what is happening and put the facts before you to decide whether you wish to remain invested in equities or consolidate the gains made over the past few years and switch to funds which are unlikely to be as heavily effected (and may even grow) should the equity and commodity markets fall further – these funds would include cash deposits, bond funds and hedge funds (which are generally ‘market neutral’).
One point we would suggest taking into consideration when making you decision is that downward markets affect single contribution investments (such as Friends Provident International’s Zenith and Generali’s Choice policies) substantially more than they affect regular contribution policies (such as Aviva’s , Friends Provident International’s Premier and Generali’s Vision policies). This is because with a single contribution the value of your investment falls as the markets do and you have to wait for the markets to regain all their losses before your investment regains it value.
However, with regular contribution policies, an effect known as ‘Dollar cost averaging’ occurs in falling markets. Put simply, each month the share price goes down, you can buy more units for each Dollar you invest. Then, when the markets return to a phase of positive growth, the policy holds a lot more units which (as they increase in value) results in your policy producing enhanced returns.
If you feel the markets will not fall further, or you feel they will fall but you have a regular contribution policy and are in it for the medium- to longer-term, then you may be better served remaining in the equity funds of the Candour Consultancy’s balanced and aggressive portfolios.
For those with regular contribution policies who wish to consolidate growth, or hold a single contribution investment and feel the markets are likely to fall further, we have structured additional ‘consolidation portfolio’ where policyholders should be protected from any further market falls.
As an example, our Generali ‘consolidation portfolio’ consists of:-
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Provider
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Fund
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Allocation
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Lloyds TSB
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USD Money Fund
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20%
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Generali International
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Global Bond Fund
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25%
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Invesco
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Bond Fund
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25%
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Thames River
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Hillside Apex Fund
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10%
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Momentum
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All Weather Liquidity Fund
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20%
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Should you require further information on suitable funds for your savings plan or investment, just write to Candour Consultancy at info@candourconsultancy.com
- Candour Consultancy, June 2006
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DAD, A GREATEST INSPIRATION
When a child is born , the first thing it acknowledges is the touch and the sound of its mother. Then it acknowledges the sound that it had heard for the past 9months while it was in mother’s womb. That’s the feel & sound of his father….
Father plays an important role in our life. God created father such that we can look up to him even though he might not be able to play with us nor tuck us in bed when we go to sleep. He might not know to put diaper pins also. But he will be always there beside us holding our hands when we are tensed and upset. Encourage and strengthen us to face life’s toughest battles.
God created Father’s shoulders strong enough so that it is used for support whenever we feel like crying. Strong hands stretch forth towards us when we reach out for them at some desperate moments. A pair of ears which is ready to listen to our small stories or problems….and a smiling face which does not show a bored look but on the contrary make us feel comfortable.
During times of failure, he encourages us not to loose our spirit and go ahead in life with optimistic approach. Pats our back as jesture of appreciation for good work done by us.
As time passes, he teaches us important lessons of life that is very helpful to face the hardships in life. At times he might be angry with us but all for our own best to reach the heights that we aim for in our life.
Since the presence of God cannot be with us always ,God created Mother and Father who builds the bridge between God and us. So we should all raise a toast for them for all their hardwork and pains they have taken to make us reach this level that we are today so that they are proud to say to the world “ Yes, I am his/her father ”
- Jiji Santosh, June 2006
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GRUMPY OLD MEN
One of the drawbacks of being an expatriate in the Gulf region is the shocking television. However, recently I have enjoyed a series on BBC Prime called Grumpy Old Men. For those of you who haven’t seen the series, it consists of several middle-aged and older men moaning about modern society.
The reason I enjoyed the series so much is that I agreed with pretty much everything they were complaining about! It also got me thinking (and moaning) about the other drawbacks of being an expatriate; especially those in my area of expertise - expatriate financial services.
Every survey I come across finds that expatriates are supposedly smarter, more ‘socially responsible’ and better paid than the average person in their home country. I am not pointing this out to be elitist (which seems to be a favourite trait of the grumpy old men) but to make the argument that if we expatriates are brought up better, less likely to commit crime and more intelligent, why do most offshore banks and financial institutions treat us like high risk idiots?
To show you what I mean, here are some of my pet hates relating to offshore financial services:
I can’t understand why many offshore banks offer expatriates interest rates (on average) 0.5% less than their ‘onshore’ equivalent. To make things worse, when it comes lending us that money back, they charge us (on average) 0.5% more than the leading onshore rates and will lend us 15% less. Why is this the case if we earn more, save more and are more reliable customers?
I can’t believe that some offshore savings and pension’s providers only publish part of the total fees and charges in their policy brochures; only mentioning mirror fund costs and credit card charges in the small print. This would never be allowed to happen onshore.
It angers me that offshore financial advisors do not need to have any formal qualifications to work in the industry. Can you believe it that I have even met an advisor who didn’t even know what a mortgage is!
It disappoints me that some offshore institutions charge are for paying our premiums or savings contributions by credit card when they are already charging us fees for the policy. This is usually 1% of the premium amount, which essentially amounts to another layer of charges.
It saddens me that some brokerages bring young advisors offshore promising the potential to earn big money from day one. These poor advisors run out of money after 6 months and have to return home broke - leaving their clients without any future feedback on their investment. This is good for no-one but the brokerage.
I can’t believe that people still fall for ‘get rich quick’ schemes – if it sounds too good to be true, it probably is.
And lastly,
I hate being cold called ten times a day – yes, it even happens to financial advisors!
So what can we do about it? Well, the first thing is to educate ourselves and understand how & when we are at a disadvantage. That’s why, in the advice section of their website, Candour Consultancy have written a number of articles explaining what to look out for whether choosing a medical insurance policy, offshore investment life assurance policy or trust.
Secondly, don’t be afraid to ask your bank or advisor what & why? What are the charges? Why are you charging more 0.5% more interest than your onshore customers? What would happen if I move countries? Why isn’t the mirror fund charges explained in the brochure? If you don’t get the candid answers you are looking for, speak to Candour Consultancy.
Candour Consultancy only employ consultants who have already worked in the Gulf region for at least two years, who are financially independent and have made a commitment to work for us long term. All our consultants are FPC qualified receive ongoing training and development; both internally and from financial institutions. Our consultants do not cold call; instead working from referrals and enquiries.
It is company policy only to recommend offshore savings and pension plans where all the charges are clearly outlined in the policy brochure; where the provider does not use mirror funds or charge extra for paying buy credit card.
Likewise, we constantly monitor the offshore banks to ensure our customers are receiving the best rates savings and mortgage rates for expatriates. And when it comes to medical insurance, we only recommend international policies with excellent service and a proven claims history.
- Candour Consultancy, May 2006
About the Author: Darren Ashley is Managing Partner of Candour Consultancy. Darren has worked in the financial industry for over 10 years; the last five years in Dubai. Candour Consultancy is an independent financial brokerage offering expatriates impartial advice on the whole spectrum of offshore financial services and taxation.
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THE BRITISH SERGEANTS' MESS – KSQA AYDIM
AN ABRIDGED HISTORY
The British Sergeants' Mess at Aydim evolved from a joint Omani/British combined SNCOs/Officers' Mess located as what has been known variously as Manston Battle Training Camp, Southern Oman Brigade Training Centre and Aydim Training Centre and now, The Sultan Qaboos Military Academy
The original Mess, albeit a dishevelment of plywood, corrugated iron and a smattering of concrete, was a home from home for all that lived there. It should be borne in mind that Loan Service and contract personnel working in Aydim at the time used to fly by Skyvan, from RAFO Salalah to Aydim on a Saturday morning, and return home on a Thursday afternoon.
Originally called 'The White Swan' this unassuming name was changed to 'The Aydim Yacht Club' in April 1992. Nestling at the top of the jebel, this moniker seems a misnomer, but it arose from the fact that adventure-training boats were commandeered by the Mess, moored at the Frontier Force pier at Raysut and availed of by Mess members for weekend recreation.
In 1984, with the opening of a new Officers' Mess, The Aydim Yacht Club became a fully-fledged British Sergeants' Mess in its own right.
In 1985, just as the membership of the Mess was declining and the Mess was in danger of being closed down, engineers from the Balfour Beatty Company arrived, here to construct the road between Mughsayl and Furious, and thus complete the route from Salalah to Sarfait. Devoid of accommodation, they were offered the facilities of the Mess until their camp was built near Arfit. To reciprocate, the men from Balfour Beatty assisted with some much needed and greatly appreciated improvements to the Mess. Many were the 'shindigs' between the Aydim and Arfit fraternities and this amiable liaison continued well into 1988, when the Balfour Beatty personnel finally departed, but not before presenting a snooker table as a way of thanking the members for their hospitality.
Although having only a few members, the Mess somehow survived, and became a popular watering hole for visiting Salalahites. This was particularly so during the khareef, a phenomenon escaped at Aydim. Paradoxically, as access to Aydim by road became easier, the vogue to drop in on the Mess abated, so, again members relaxed in their serene solitude.
A rebuild of KSQA began in 1995 and by August 1997, a new Mess was completed. Although The Aydim Yacht Club still stands, from its ashes, metaphorically arose the new British Sergeants Mess.
Although I only worked in KSQA for two years, I will always have fond memories of the dinner parties, barbeques, games nights and other social events that took place at Aydim with our friends from Salalah, and visitors from all across Oman.
Sadly, with the demise of Mess membership and due to the reduction in Loan Service posts at Aydim, The British Sergeants' Mess finally closed its doors on 12 April 2003.
Written by Dave Phillips – Loan Service KSQA Aydim – Mar 01 - Jul 03
With special thanks to Mr Morris Hanna for his outstanding reminiscences. Although sadly he was not around to see the final chapter in the life of the Mess in which he had lived for over 17 years, I know he would have been sad to see its demise.
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EDUCATION FEE PLANNING
When should you start to think about planning for a child’s education/future? Based on the assumption that the parents will be based in the UAE and therefore need to pay for schooling up until the age of 18 and in the hope and expectation that the child will eventually go to university.
A good education is one of the few investments that can be made for a child that will be of permanent benefit. However, building this benefit will involve effective planning and considerable outlay from either capital or income.
To save comfortably for higher education fees alone, parents should start saving as soon as a child is born. Based on current university costs in the UK, a parent will need to contribute in the region of £350 a month over the next 15 years to fully cover course fees, books, accommodation and other day-to-day living expenses – this can be doubled for courses, such as medicine or law, which have a longer duration.
When we take secondary education into account too, the amount we need to save on a monthly basis nearly doubles. Typically, the basic fees for a year at a private secondary school work out at over £7,500 a year - and that’s before paying for the inevitable extras such as school trips, books and music lessons. Fees for full time borders - often a necessity for the internationally mobile - can be twice as much again.
However, the majority of the increase in cost arises not because of the expense of secondary education but in the fact the we need access to funds in as little as five years (which doesn’t give our investment particularly long to grow) whilst still saving towards the next several years secondary education costs and potential university fees.
Taking inflation into account, a parent of a one year old child would have to save £600 a month for the next 20 years to fully cover secondary school, 6 form and university expenses.
As parents will be looking to save for every eventuality what kind of products do you advise your clients to consider? Bearing in mind that you will need access to money sooner than you would, say in a retirement fund, but that it also needs to be fairly risk adverse? Is this a correct assumption?
With foresight you can use an investment that will provide the growth potential to give you part or even all of the money you need to ensure you can provide the best education for your children. Candour provides investment advice on various types of school and university expenses plans, whether funded from capital or income.
Funding from Capital
If capital is available to invest for education expenses (perhaps from generous grandparents!) tax efficient investments and Trusts can be used to maximise the return on this capital. The investment return is partly dependent on the length of time before fees have to be drawn down, so the sooner you start the better.
Normally we would recommend that a lump sum of capital is invested for at least five years, ideally ten years so that a reasonable return can be achieved. When investing lump sums, it is often prudent to look at capital protected or lower risk funds. Depending on the sum to be invested, Candour may recommend spreading the capital between three lower risk asset classes; maybe a capital-protected equity based fund, a low-volatility hedge fund and a commercial property fund. All three of these asset classes should produce steady reliable returns but by diversifying we are reducing the risk further just in case one of the funds under-performs.
Funding from Income
The benefit of saving for a child’s education is that the investment is generally for the longer term (more than 10 years) and very often made on a regular basis.
When saving smaller regular amounts, the best way for expatriates to invest is through a offshore savings plan. These are essentially ‘wrappers’ which allow you to invest in a wide range of pooled investment funds.
Pooled investment funds give the everyday investor access to a variety of equities, securities (such as bonds), and alternative investments (such as hedge funds and commercial property funds) which they would not have the resources to invest in individually.
Such funds may be actively managed - where a fund manager picks individual assets based on a view of their future potential - or passively managed - where a manager invests in all the shares that comprise a stock market index, such as the FTSE 100 or the S&P 500.
What tips do you personally give parents/prospective when it comes to planning for educations costs?
The main piece of advise has to be to start as early as possible. The earlier you start be less you will need to contribute each month (or upfront) and so it becomes less of a burden to you – after a few months most people do not even miss the money.
Secondly, save as much as possible – it is better to save too much than too little. If you get a good bonus one year, why not top up the education fees plan a little?
Thirdly, if you cannot afford to contribute enough to cover the full expenses, save what you can. It is better to have money available to cover half the costs than having nothing at all. As Tescos say – every little helps!
Lastly - and this is as important as the first tip - write the savings plan in trust. Doing this involves slightly more work on the part of the financial advisor but should not cost you any extra. By writing the investment in trust (from outset), the money will fall outside your estate should you die and will be earmarked for you child’s education.
Indeed, you can even instruct the trustees (usually close family and/or friends) to pay the school / university directly and to drip feed money for accommodation, food, books, etc… in the trust document. This will ensure the money is used for the purposes it was intended rather than being spent on the more enjoyable side of student life!
- Candour Consultancy, April 2006
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